Average Reviews:
(More customer reviews)This is the 2010 model filter, not the 2009. You do not have to buy adapters or anything else in addition to this pump. Everything you need is included in the package. I'm not sure why Amazon hasn't put a picture in here of all the parts included. I was going to upload a photo but I forgot to take a picture, sorry!
The amount of salt they tell you to get the system up and running is insane, plan on using only about 75% of what they say. Avoid buying expensive pool salt. Go to stores like Costco, BJ's and get the 40lbs bags of salt there. Make sure it does not contain iodine. Or go to your local home improvment store and pick up solar salt, which is what I did (80lbs at Lowes). The crystals are large (1/4-"3/8" diameter) but still dissolved in about 4 hours with the pump running. Throw away the few funny colored crystals you come across. Don't put them in the pool.
Careful with the bleeder valves they can easily break. I somehow managed to break one at the end of the season. These should be replaced if broken due to the fact that they can become projectiles when unscrewed.
Pros:
#1. It is quiet. How quiet? Well I can easily stand there and talk to someone while it is running.
#2. I read the 2009 model would clear its memory when the power goes out. That is not the case with the 2010 model. I set it up, unplugged it for 30 minutes, plugged it back in and it kept the hours it was programed to do.
#3. Turning it on and off has not tripped the GFI.
#4. The water looks great. No slime on the walls and the pool is staying clean.
Cons:
#1. (Solved. See below Sept 2) You can only program the chlorinator to run for a set time at 24 hours intervals. So if you start the chlorinator at 10pm on Monday it will run again at 10pm on Tuesday.
#2. (Solved. See below Sept 2) If the power goes out (or you turn shut it off/unplug it) when the power comes back on the chlorinator thinks it is the start of its new 24 hour cycle. So it might end up running 2 cycles that day on you.
#3. (Somewhat solved. See below Sept 2) If you want to run the filter for a bit to clean up the water you have to shut off the pump, turn it back on and then hold down both buttons for 5 seconds. This will start what they call the "filter pump" mode. Just shutting off the pump to do this interrupts the 24 chlorinator cycle. When you are done you have to unlock the keypad and confirm the amount of time you want to run the chlorinator for and re-lock the pad. Once that is done you have to shut off the pump because it thinks this is the start of the 24 chlorinator cycle. Don't forget to come out later that evening to turn the chlorinator back on...just flip the power switch. I run mine at night to help give the power grid a break.
#4. (Solved. See below Jan 25) I use it with the 1.25" to 1.50" adapters. The adapters do not seal completely and there is always a slight drip. But it isn't the drip I care about. When the pump runs it is sucking air in to the fitting. Every day I have to bleed the air out of the top of the filter canister. This isn't really a filter problem as it is an adapter issue. I'm including it here because the adapters are included in the pump package.
Conclusion:
The pump is nice and the filter works great. However the user interface leaves a lot to be desired. At the very least it would be nice to run the filter with out messing up the chlorinator schedule. That is the reason I gave it 4 stars. Is it worth the money? Well I have only owned it for a few weeks so I'm not going to go around saying it's the best thing since sliced bread. All I can say is so far it's done what it should. If it fails then I'll update it here.
Update September 2, 2010:
#1. After playing with the adapters for a while I managed to stop them from sucking in air, it didn't take a whole lot of time, just patience.
#2. I found a solution to "Cons #1, #2 and #3". This was the problem with the pump not having an internal clock (not to be confused with timer). I bought an outdoor timer from Lowes for $20. It was well worth the money. Leave the pump switch on and set to a high number of hours, mine is at 6 hours. Then use the timer and set it to the real hours you want. I have run it from 3-5 hours depending on how hot it is. With the filter set to a high number of hours it assures me that it will not shut off before the timer box does it.
#3. I use a normal vinyl pool vacuum with this. I disconnect the skimmer and attach the 1.5" hose to the intake. It works far better then the intex vacuum that hooks up to a garden hose. I have a pine tree nearby so some of the hidden intake strainers get clogged with debris.
#4. It is fairly quiet during operation. If it is noisy then you probably have either air in there which you need to bleed out or one of the hidden intake strainers are clogged. I don't know the design of all the intake strainers so proceed with caution. I have one intake strainer inside the pool. Shut off the fliter before proceeding! Remove the skimmer adapter (or intake cover if you don't have a skimmer) from inside the pool to access it, this is the usual culprit. The second one is located on the intake of the filter pump housing. If you want to check it then turn off the pump, shut the intake and outlet valves (they are on the hoses just outside the pool) and unscrew the intake hose from the filter pump. Stick your head down there and you'll see there is a strainer built in to the filter pump housing. Best way I have found to clear it is leave the intake hose off the filter and open the outlet valve for a few seconds and let it backwash the filter. Careful! The water comes out fast!
#5. I am still using the same type B filter I had since June. I rinse it off once a week with a garden hose set to a gentle spray. It takes about 1 minute to do and removes %95 of the stuff on it. This isn't a scientific study, just a guess. It still comes up white, no holes, no tears. So I don't see a reason to replace it.
#6. Pool is still clear. No slime, no haze. I do have algae growth on the seams of the pool now and then but nothing major. Use chemicals or just vacuum it up.
#7. You can use solar salt with no problems. Don't spend a fortune on pool salt at your local pool supply store. Even though the solar salt purity isn't exactly what the book calls for it works fine. What's half a percent going to matter?
I still stick to the 4 stars I gave it in June. It does what it says and works well. The whole salt thing is pretty easy. I didn't put in as much salt as they said, only about %75 of what they called for in the setup book. I don't remember the exact figures but the book number was overkill. I added in a one or two 12oz cups of salt here and there after heavy rains or adding a good bit of water.
Update January 25, 2011:
I forgot to update this earlier in the year. I solved part of "Cons #4" above. The air getting sucked in to the filter was caused by a clog in the intake strainer. Please follow directions "#4" I have listed under the September 2nd, 2010 update for clearing the clog. After clearing the clogs it stopped sucking air through the fittings. Also as suggested if you have a leak try teflon tape.
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Intex Krystal Clear Saltwater System and Filter PumpNew for 2010! A two-stage process uses copper ionization to disinfect ions while converting salt to natural chlorine, creating an aggressive biocide to attack pool algae better than any product on the market. Touch-sensitive control panel allows user to pre-program operating hours - 24 hour auto clockFlow sensor system alerts operator to adverse operating conditions. Keypad locking system ensures settings are not changed accidentally.Easy to use test strips (50 count) included to check performance and maintain the perfect level of salinity in your above ground swimming pool.Easy set-up video included.What is saline conversion chlorination? - Saline chlorination is a term used for the process of converting the salt dissolved in water into active liquid chlorine, known as hypochlorite, for the sanitization of swimming pool & spa waterHow does saline conversion chlorination work? - A specific quantity of pure, non-iodized, fine grain table salt is added to the pool water to create a saltwater (saline) concentration of 0.3% (3000 parts per million). This salinity concentration is slightly less than the salinity level found in most human tears, thus it is very gentle to the swimmer's eyes and skin. Liquid chlorine (hypochlorite) is created through a process called electrolysis. As the water pump passes the saline through the chlorinator cell a low voltage DC current is applied to the saline. This applied energy current changes the salt dissolved in the water into liquid chlorine (hypochlorite). The liquid chlorine immediately mixes with the water leaving the chlorinator cell and flows into the swimming pool as clean, chlorinated water.The continuous introduction of liquid chlorine will ensure the continuous sanitization of the pool's water and will not allow the growth of algae. When the liquid chlorine has destroyed the bacteria in the pool, it reverts to salt.
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